Yarn is the main intermediate product of the textile industry and the upstream raw material for printing and dyeing, yarn dyed, knitting, clothing and other industries. It has a wide range of uses and can be used as knitting yarn, weaving yarn, woven yarn, high-speed sewing thread and embroidery thread and other raw materials for the production of products.
The thinner the yarn, the lighter, thinner, and softer the woven fabric; the thicker the yarn, the heavier, thicker, and rougher the woven fabric.
Yarn count refers to the thickness of the yarn, and its most common representation methods are Tex, Dtex, Denier, Ne, Nm, etc. Specific fabrics use specific specifications, of which Ne and Denier are more commonly used. In textile science and technology literature, tex is generally converted.
Yarn Count usage habits | |
Silk yarn factory, chemical fiber yarn factory | Denier (D) |
Wool yarn mill , hemp yarn mill | Metric count ( Nm ) |
cotton mill | English cotton count (Ne) |
The thickness of the yarn is the most important indicator of the yarn. Since the thickness of the yarn is difficult to measure directly with tools, the thickness of the yarn is professionally represented by two indirect indicators, namely the fixed length system and the fixed weight system.
Common yarn count type | |||||
Type | Fixed length system (The larger the value, the thicker the yarn) | Fixed weight system (the larger the value, the finer the yarn) | |||
Tex | Dtex | Denier | Metric Count | English Cotton Count | |
Definition | The weight in grams of 1,000 m yarn at a fixed moisture return rate. | The weight in grams of 10,000 m yarn at a fixed moisture return rate. | The weight in grams of 9,000 m yarn at a fixed moisture return rate. | The length in meters of a 1 gram piece of yarn at a fixed moisture recovery rate. | The number of 840 yards per 1 pound piece of yarn in the British system at a fixed rate of moisture return. |
Formula of calculation | Ntex =(G/L)*1000 | Ndtex =(G/L)*10000 | Nden =(G/L)*9000 | Nm = L/G | Ne =(L/G)*840 |
Scope of application | Cotton type yarn, cotton type chemical fiber yarn | Cotton type yarn, cotton type chemical fiber yarn | Silk, chemical filament yarn, chemical staple fiber | Woolen yarn, wool chemical fiber yarn, hessian yarn, silk spinning yarn, | Cotton type yarn, cotton type chemical fiber yarn |
Expressed by the weight per unit length of the yarn at a given moisture regain. The fixed length system is divided into Tex system and Denier system. In the custom-length yarn count, the larger the value, the thicker the yarn.
Definition: The weight (grams) of a 1000-meter-long yarn at a given moisture regain is called the tex number of the yarn, expressed in Ntex, and its unit is tex.
Calculation formula: Ntex = (G/L) * 1000
In the formula: G is the weight of the yarn (grams), and L is the length of the yarn (meters).
Example: There is a kind of pure cotton yarn, which weighs 18.2 grams in 1000 meters. Assuming that the public moisture regain is just 8.5%, the yarn is called 18.2tex yarn.
Definition: The weight (grams) of 10,000-meter-long yarn at a given moisture regain is called the tex number of the yarn, expressed in Ntex, and its unit is tex.
Calculation formula: Ndtex = (G/L) * 10000
In the formula: G is the weight of the yarn (grams), and L is the length of the yarn (meters).
Example: There is a kind of pure cotton yarn, which weighs 18.2 grams in 1000 meters. Assuming that the public moisture regain is just 8.5%, the yarn is called 18.2tex yarn.
Definition: The weight (grams) of a 9000-meter-long filament at a given moisture regain is called the denier of the filament, and its unit is D in Nden. It’s usually used in the chemical fiber yarn factory.
Calculation formula: Nden = (G/L) * 9000
In the formula: G is the weight of the silk (grams), and L is the length of the silk (meters).
Example: There is a kind of filament yarn, 9000 meters weighed as 150 grams, assuming that the public moisture regain factor is not considered, the yarn is called 150 Denier yarn or 150D yarn.
It is expressed by the length of the unit weight of the yarn at the specified moisture regain. In the fixed weight system, there are two types of imperial count and metric count. At present, the imperial count is often used. In the yarn count of the fixed weight system, the larger the value, the thinner the yarn.
Definition: The multiple of the length of 840 yards of 1-pound yarn at a given moisture regain. The imperial number is represented by Ne, and its unit is S. Internationally, imperial count (Ne) is widely used in the cotton textile industry. The English cotton count is a fixed weight system, so the larger the value, the finer the yarn.
Calculation formula: Ne = (L/G) * 840
In the formula: L is the length (yard) of yarn (silk), G is the weight (pound) of yarn (silk).
Example: There is a pure cotton yarn weighing 1 pound, and its length is measured to be 32 to 840 yards. Assuming that the public moisture regain is just 8.5%, the yarn is called 32Ne yarn or 32S yarn.
Definition: Under the established moisture regain, the length in meters of 1 gram of yarn (silk), expressed in Nm, and its unit is N. The metric count is a measurement index used in the wool spinning and hemp spinning industries to indicate the thickness of fibers and yarns. The metric count is a fixed weight system, so the larger the value, the finer the yarn.
Calculation formula: Nm = L/G
In the formula: L is the length (meter) of yarn (silk), G is the weight (gram) of yarn (silk)
Example: There is a kind of wool yarn, the length measured by taking 1 gram is 25 meters, assuming that the public moisture regain factor is not considered, the yarn is called 25Nm yarn or 25N yarn.
To measure the yarn count, shake out the test skein from the conditioned sample under specified conditions (65% relative humidity and 20°C moisture regain). (If there is no constant temperature and humidity laboratory, there is no According to the conditions of humidity adjustment as required, only a special textile oven with a weighing device on the sample box can be used, and the drying method is used for weighing). The test instruments used are: yarn frame length measuring device, balance, sample creel, and calculator and other auxiliary equipment.
The length of the sample yarn used to measure the linear density of the yarn is 200m when the linear density is less than 12.5tex (Ne 47 or more), and 100m when the linear density is between 12.100tex (47-5.8 Ne). When it is greater than 100tex (less than 5.78 Ne), take 10m.
The balance, if you use the balance of the oven, usually weighs 200g ± 0.01g, that is, one hundredth of the balance. The balance attached to this oven is usually added to the chain, and the weighing is important. Turn off the fan and electric heating, and start after one minute Weighing the seeds must be completed within 10 minutes, and the operation of adding weight to the chain will feel a little troublesome.
If it is specially used to measure the linear density of yarn, it can usually be equipped with an electronic balance with an accuracy of 10mg or 0.01g (one percent).
1. The special number Ntex and the imperial number Ne
Ne=C/ Ntex
(C is a constant, chemical fiber is 590.5, cotton fiber is 583, if it is a blended yarn, it can be calculated according to the mixing ratio, such as: T/JC (65/35) 45S yarn C=590.5*65%+583*35% =588, then calculate according to the formula)
2. Ne and metric Nm
Pure fiber: Ne=0.5905Nm Cotton: Ne=0.583Nm
Blended yarn: such as T/JC (65/35) 45S Ne=(0.5905*65%+0.583*35%) Nm
3. Special number Ntex and metric Nm
Ntex ×Nm=1000
4. Special number Ntex and denier number Nden
Why=9*Ntex
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